Madeira is a mountain in the Atlantic: steep, green and short of sand, with the Laurisilva, its old laurel forest, a World Heritage Site since 1999. Where you stay decides the trip. Funchal, the capital, climbs from its bay, with the hotel zone and the Lido to the west, the Sé and the Zona Velha, the old town, in the middle, and São Gonçalo on the hill to the east; Caniço de Baixo is a cliff-top resort east of the city, Santana is on the wetter north coast and Ponta do Sol is a village on the south-west coast. Seven of these ten are in Funchal or above it, and one each in Caniço de Baixo, Santana and Ponta do Sol.
Funchal has the grand names and the town life but no sandy beach: you swim from pools, platforms and ladders. Reid's Palace, A Belmond Hotel has stood on its cliff at the western edge of the bay since 1891, with pools above the sea and a tidal pool; The Cliff Bay, its neighbour on the cliff, has a saltwater pool and a ladder into the Atlantic; and VidaMar Resort Hotel Madeira, the family pick, has seawater pools on a platform at the Lido. Savoy Palace, opened in 2019 on Avenida do Infante, has an adults-only infinity pool on its 17th floor. In the centre, Hotel Madeira, taking guests since 1969, is 6 minutes on foot from the Sé, and Barceló Funchal Oldtown, opened in 2023 behind six old façades, is 2 minutes from it. The hills are real: from the Lido hotels the Sé is 33 minutes' walk, gently downhill, and the walk back climbs. Casa Velha do Palheiro, an 1804 hunting lodge, is about 500 metres up at São Gonçalo: 71 minutes down to the Sé on foot and nearly two hours back.
Beyond the city, Sentido Galomar, for adults 16 and over, stands on the cliff at Caniço de Baixo, with lifts down to a bathing complex and steps into the sea. Hotel Quinta do Furão is a vineyard estate on the cliff above Santana, 15 minutes by car from the Caldeirão Verde levada and 26 from the path up Pico Ruivo. Estalagem da Ponta do Sol, an old quinta with new wings, has an infinity pool on the cliff and a lift down to the village and its pebble beach.
Madeira Airport (FNC) is at Santa Cruz, on the coast east of Funchal. With the roads clear, Sentido Galomar is 12 minutes from the terminal bus stop, Casa Velha do Palheiro and Barceló 20, Hotel Madeira 21, Savoy Palace 23, Reid's 24, The Cliff Bay and VidaMar 25, Quinta do Furão 33 and Estalagem da Ponta do Sol 37. By day, on distance alone, the taxi meter comes to roughly €30 to central Funchal, €35 to the Lido and €60 to Ponta do Sol. The Aerobus runs to Funchal's seafront and the Lido for €6.70 on board. Away from Funchal a hire car is close to essential: the VR1 expressway follows the south coast, the VE1 crosses to Santana and the VE3 climbs to Ponta do Sol, and the trailheads at Pico do Arieiro and Rabaçal are far easier with one. The island's buses take one regional ticket, €13.75 a day, and the classified walking trails need a timed slot booked online, €4.50 a trail.
Read the rate before comparing prices. Nine of the ten include breakfast in the prices shown here; Sentido Galomar's lowest rate is room only. Half board is sold at seven of them, including Barceló, VidaMar, Quinta do Furão and the Estalagem. IVA, at Madeira's reduced rate of 4%, is in the price; the tourist tax is usually added at the hotel. Funchal, Santa Cruz, Santana and Ponta do Sol each charge €2 per guest per night, for up to seven nights, from age 13, and in Funchal the council has voted to raise it to €4 from 2027. The honest part: the south has the city and the sea pools, the north the forest walks and the rain, and nowhere has much sand. In 2024 Santana had more days of rain, 129, than any other weather station in the islands. In Funchal, by IPMA's normals, January afternoons average 20.0°C (68°F) and August's 26.8°C (80°F), with 574 mm of rain a year, almost none in summer.