Lanzarote is a volcanic island shaped by one artist, César Manrique, who persuaded it to build low and paint it white; his gardens, viewpoints and lava caves are now its sights. Where you stay decides the trip. Puerto del Carmen and Puerto Calero sit on the sheltered south-east coast, Playa Blanca at the southern tip and Costa Teguise north of the capital, Arrecife, a working town with a beach of its own. Inland lie the vineyards of La Geria, the old capital, Teguise, and the valley of palms at Haría. Seven of these ten are by the sea, three inland.
Puerto del Carmen is a seafront avenue of restaurants above golden beaches. Hotel Fariones, the island's first beach hotel, opened in 1966 and fully renovated as a five-star by 2020, stands on the point at the western end of Playa Grande, and La Isla y el Mar, 81 adults-only suites, steps down the hill above. To the west, Puerto Calero is a marina with Secrets Lanzarote, adults only, at its edge. Playa Blanca faces Fuerteventura, 25 to 35 minutes away by ferry. Princesa Yaiza opens onto Playa Dorada, with Capitan Park, a children's park for ages 0 to 16; Barceló Playa Blanca, opened in December 2023, has a long infinity pool facing the strait; and the Papagayo beaches are a short drive east, €3 at the gate, by card. At Costa Teguise, Paradisus Salinas Lanzarote keeps Manrique's atrium gardens and lagoon pool, now adults only and all-inclusive. In Arrecife, Hotel Lancelot faces Playa del Reducto, 16 minutes' walk from the Charco de San Ginés. Inland, Hotel César Lanzarote has 20 rooms at La Asomada, between La Geria's vines and the sea; Hotel Boutique Palacio Ico has nine in a manor of around 1690 in Teguise; and La Casa de los Naranjos has eight in Haría, 8 minutes' walk from Manrique's last home.
César Manrique-Lanzarote Airport is 5 km from Arrecife, and the island is small. With the roads clear, Hotel Lancelot is 7 minutes from the Terminal 1 arrivals kerb, Fariones, La Isla y el Mar and César Lanzarote 13, Paradisus and Secrets 18, Palacio Ico 21, the Playa Blanca pair 31 and La Casa de los Naranjos 36. IntercityBus's island buses stop outside both terminals and take a bank card or cash: line 161 reaches the Apart. Caletón Blanco stop in Puerto del Carmen in 18 minutes and Playa Blanca in 47, the faster 162-D, eight times a day, Playa Blanca in 20, and lines 22 and 23 go to Arrecife. A metered taxi by day comes to about €20 to Puerto del Carmen, €25 to Costa Teguise and €45 to Playa Blanca. Beyond the resorts a hire car is close to essential: the LZ-2 runs from Arrecife past the airport to Playa Blanca, the LZ-1 north towards Haría and the LZ-67 across Timanfaya, where Montañas del Fuego, €30 with the coach on the Ruta de los Volcanes, is sold only online for a set time. César Lanzarote, Palacio Ico and La Casa de los Naranjos need a car.
Read the rate before comparing prices. Paradisus Salinas is all-inclusive only; Secrets and Barceló start with breakfast and sell half board and all-inclusive; Princesa Yaiza, Fariones and La Isla y el Mar include breakfast, with half board above it; César Lanzarote and La Casa de los Naranjos include it on every rate, with a two-night minimum; at Palacio Ico and Hotel Lancelot it depends on the rate. IGIC, the Canary Islands' 7% sales tax, is in the price, and no council on the island charges a tourist tax.
The honest part: Puerto del Carmen has the beaches and the evenings, Playa Blanca the calm sea and the Papagayo coves, and the inland houses the island's character at the cost of a drive to the sand. Costa Teguise's Playa de las Cucharas is a windsurfing beach, and at Timanfaya the Centros Turísticos advise a cap and sun protection from June to September and warm clothes from October to April, when it is windy. At the airport, AEMET's normals give January afternoons 20.7°C (69°F) and August's 29.1°C (84°F), 111 mm of rain a year on about 19 days and nearly 3,000 hours of sun. Calima, Saharan dust that hazes the sky, comes in episodes, most often in February.