Tenerife is two islands. The south is dry, sunny almost year-round and built for holidays: Costa Adeje is the default base, and for good reason. It has the calmest beaches, the best restaurants outside Santa Cruz and the highest concentration of properly good hotels. La Caleta at the northern end is a former fishing village with Royal Hideaway Corales Beach on the front; Playa del Duque is the smart middle, where Bahía del Duque sits; the Golf Costa Adeje slopes behind hold Royal River and Royal Garden Villas. If you want warmth in January with no gamble, book south and book Costa Adeje, or the quieter west coast around Guía de Isora if you are happy to drive, where the Ritz-Carlton Abama and Gran Meliá Palacio de Isora sit.
The north is a different place. Puerto de la Cruz and Garachico sit under Teide's cloud line, so it is greener, cooler and a few degrees less certain. The pattern in guest feedback is consistent: people who go north for the sun are disappointed, people who go for gardens, old towns and a feel of the real island are delighted. That is why four of our ten are up there: Gran Hotel Taoro and Hotel Botánico above Puerto de la Cruz, Hotel San Roque in Garachico, and Hacienda del Conde at Buenavista del Norte. Go north for character, not for a tan.
There are two airports and it matters which you use. Tenerife South is 20 to 35 minutes from every southern hotel here and takes almost all northern European flights. Tenerife North serves the north-west, about 25 minutes to Puerto de la Cruz and 47 to Garachico. TITSA line 40 is the direct bus from Tenerife South to Costa Adeje, and line 343 links Puerto de la Cruz to Costa Adeje via both airports. Otherwise hire a car. The TF-1 and TF-5 ring the island, and a car turns Teide, Masca and the Anaga hills into an afternoon rather than an expedition.
Winter is the whole point. January afternoons in the south reach about 22 degrees, with roughly two wet days a month, while Puerto de la Cruz gets four or five and three times the rain. Rates spike at Christmas, February half term and Easter; late January, May, June and November are the value windows. Santa Cruz's carnival moves the whole island, 19 to 28 February in 2027. A week is right: five nights to a southern base and two to the north, with one day built around Teide, whose cable car climbs from 2,356 to 3,555 metres for 42 euros return. The crater at 3,715 metres needs a separate permit, capped daily and released every Monday at 07:00 for the four weeks ahead.
One honest truth: Tenerife does scale. Several of the best hotels here have 300 to 600 rooms, and even the well-run ones can feel busy at breakfast and around the pools in February half term. If you want small, the list has small, but you give up facilities to get it.