Hotel restaurant, bar and terrace · €€€
The restaurant of Palazzo Velabro, the other apartment hotel on the street, a few doors along. It is named for Apicius, the Roman cookery writer, and its own page gives the hours that make it useful to a guest here: breakfast from 7 to 10.30 every day, lunch from noon to 7pm, dinner from 7 to 10.30pm, the bar from 11.30am to midnight and the terrace from noon to 11pm. The answer when your own kitchen has run out and the roof upstairs is full.
Reserve aheadVia del Velabro 16
Alvaro al Circo Massimo
3 min walkOld-school trattoria, fish and game · €€€
Three minutes from the door on the Circus Maximus side, and the nearest thing to an ordinary Roman restaurant this address has. Its listings describe a family-run trattoria that once fed the politicians of the first republic and now sits under a party headquarters, cooking fish, game, porcini and truffles as the season allows, with a ricotta pudding and tiramisù to finish and tables outside. Its listings give lunch from 12.30 to 2.30 and dinner from 7.30, closed Sunday evening and all day Monday.
Reserve aheadVia dei Cerchi 53
Weekend farmers' market, street food · €
The Campagna Amica farmers' market beside the Circus Maximus, three minutes away and open Saturday and Sunday from 8 to 3 on its own site. Over sixty Lazio producers sell direct, which with a full kitchen upstairs is the point: bread, cheese, cured meats, vegetables, fresh milk, honey and wine for the apartment. On both days the farmers' cooks and the food trucks in the outer courtyard do fried fish, vegetable soups, porchetta sandwiches and grilled meat, which is lunch for a fraction of anything else on this page.
Walk inVia di San Teodoro 74
All-day wine bar and kitchen · €€
The all-day answer on the street along the Circus Maximus: a wine bar with a kitchen that its own site opens from 10.30 in the morning to 2 at night, seven days a week, with tables outside and lunch, dinner and the aperitivo on the same list. Nobody would cross Rome for it, but at four in the afternoon or at midnight, when the Velabro has gone quiet and the roof upstairs is booked, it is four minutes away and open.
Walk inVia dei Cerchi 65
Sixth-floor hotel terrace, Roman menu · €€€
The other roof. The sixth-floor terrace of the 47 Boutique Hotel looks over the Bocca della Verità, the two Forum Boarium temples and the Theatre of Marcellus, and its own site gives noon to midnight every day, with lunch from 12 to 3 and dinner from 7 to 10. Its own menus price the Roman pastas at 25 euros, mains at 35 and cocktails at 22 with the chef's finger food, so this is the sunset drink to have when the roof at your own hotel has no table.
Reserve aheadVia Luigi Petroselli 47
Trattoria Da Teo
10 min walkTrastevere trattoria for Roman classics · €€
Ten minutes on foot over the Ponte Palatino, on a small piazza in the part of Trastevere nearest the bridge, and the reason to leave the Velabro for dinner. The city's own tourism listing gives the whole Roman canon, amatriciana, cacio e pepe, gricia and carbonara, with artichokes and fritti and some fish, in generous portions, with tables outside, and Sunday closed. It is small and known, so book.
Reserve aheadPiazza dei Ponziani 7a
Breakfast is included in the rate, and it is a basket: citruses, croissants, milk and coffee pods in the hotel's own words, left in your kitchen, with coffee capsules and tea in the room. Nobody serves it. The roof runs a public café from breakfast, pastries at 3.50 euros until 12.59 and a cappuccino at 3 on Retrobottega's own list, the pleasant option rather than the included one. For a counter breakfast, Santeo at Via di San Teodoro 88 is three minutes away and its listings give 7am to 7pm, Tuesday to Sunday; Apicio16 at number 16 serves breakfast from 7 to 10.30 every day.
The tables with photographed menus and a greeter at the door on the Bocca della Verità side of the Forum Boarium, where the queue for the stone face is the clientele and the pasta is priced for people who will never come back. Everything above is three to five minutes the other way. And do not assume the roof upstairs has a table for you at eight: only some of its tables can be reserved.