Port house restaurant, river terrace
Real Companhia Velha, the port company founded by royal charter in 1756, runs this restaurant on the first floor of its visitor centre, the building that was its headquarters from 1961 to 1972. The reason to come is the panoramic terrace facing old Porto, with the museum of the Douro's 1756 demarcation downstairs, which turns lunch into an outing. Its own site takes bookings but lists no hours, so reserve rather than chance it.
Reserve aheadAlameda da Rua de Serpa Pinto 44B
Traditional Portuguese tasca, no bookings · €€
A plain, air-conditioned dining room on the quay road that cooks the Portuguese standards rather than the view: grilled sardines, sea bass and sole, cod and octopus à lagareiro, and seafood rice, with house wine by the quarter, half or full litre. Its own site lists lunch from 12:00 to 15:30 and dinner from 19:30 to 22:30 every day but Tuesday, when it is closed, and says it takes no reservations, so arrive at opening.
Walk inAvenida Ramos Pinto 252
Open-flame cooking in Graham's lodge · €€€
Up the hill inside Graham's port lodge, where the main dining room keeps its 1890 beams and iron pillars and looks onto some 3,200 ageing barrels, and the winter-garden atrium looks over the river to Porto and the Dom Luís I bridge. The kitchen cooks the north over an open flame, with fish from the Matosinhos market and matured beef from Trás-os-Montes; the Essência tasting menu is 85 euros, or 145 with wines, for two or more.
Reserve aheadRua do Agro 141
Food market with traditional stalls · €
Gaia's riverside market, in a hall built in 1904 and reopened in 2017 as a food market. Counters sell salt cod, tripe, seafood, cheese boards and a vegetarian buffet, and, more useful with a kitchen in your suite, the traditional stalls still sell fruit, vegetables and meat. Its own site gives the food counters as 11:00 to 22:00 every day and the stalls as 7:00 to 18:00, Monday to Saturday.
Walk inAvenida de Ramos Pinto 148
Porto's roast pork sandwich house · €
The Gaia branch of the Porto house built on pernil, roast pork leg in house bread: 5.90 euros plain, 7.50 with sheep's cheese, 8.90 with cheese and onion caramelised in port, and a francesinha at 13.90 if you are hungry. Its own site lists 11:00 to 23:00, from 10:00 on Sundays, with tables on a first-come basis, which makes it the lunch that needs no planning.
Walk inAvenida de Diogo Leite 56
Iberian tasting menus, Kopke hotel · €€€€
The restaurant of the Tivoli Kopke hotel, named for the year the Kopke port house was founded, with tasting menus by the Asturian chef Nacho Manzano of Casa Marcial that combine his home cooking with northern Portugal's, Kopke wines to match and views over Porto. Its own site lists dinner Tuesday to Saturday at two sittings, 19:30 and 21:00, plus Saturday lunch at 12:30 and 14:00. It is a ten-minute climb.
Book well ahead: tables go weeks outRua do Barão de Forrester 69
Breakfast is served in Pot&Pan from 7:30 to 11:30, from a menu of eggs, Benedicts on sourdough, pancakes and oatmeal. Check whether your rate includes it, because the hotel gives no price for adding it, and guests report that on full mornings it spills into the lobby. The real alternative is the kitchen in your suite: the traditional stalls at Mercado Beira-Rio, seven minutes' walk away, open at 7:00 Monday to Saturday, and its food counters from 11:00 every day.
The terraces along the quay that sell themselves on the view, with picture menus and staff inviting you in as you pass. You would be paying for a view of Ribeira you already have from the hotel's own roof. Four of the places above share the same stretch of quay; walk on to them instead.