Why this short crossing is one of the Adriatic's great ones
Sailors have been making for this island for twenty-four centuries. In 384 BC Greeks from the island of Paros founded Pharos, today's Stari Grad, because its deep bay offered the best protection, and divided the plain behind it into plots of dry-stone walls that farmers still work. UNESCO listed the Stari Grad Plain in 2008.
The Venetians, invited back in 1278 against the pirates of Omiš, moved the island's seat across to Hvar town, and Hvar became Venice's main port in the eastern Adriatic. Its galleys were kept in an arsenal on the harbour, first built between 1292 and 1331. When the arsenal was renovated and enlarged in 1611, a theatre was opened on its upper floor in 1612, by the town's own account the first public theatre in Europe. Above it all stands the fortress, rebuilt in 1551, where the townspeople took refuge when the Ottoman fleet burned the town in 1571.
That is still the arrival: the catamaran runs in past the Pakleni islands and noses into the same harbour, slowly now, by order of the port authority. The town's square, the largest in Dalmatia, was once a bay that was filled in with stone over centuries. On the riva, backpackers step off beside superyachts.
The island earns its reputation. The Croatian weather service measures an average of 2,800 hours of sunshine a year on Hvar, the sea stays above 20°C for more than five months, and the lavender, olives and pines reach down to coves you can swim from within minutes of the boat.









