The catch at The Ivens
Five things stand between the photograph and the stay. None of them is hidden, and two of them are the price of the fun, but each has cost someone the night they thought they had booked.
On our shortlists
The entry rooms are 22 square metres, and only two suites are sold on the river view
The Capelo King and the Capelo Twin, the entry categories, are 22 square metres on the hotel's own booking pages, sleep two and take no rollaway bed. The Ivens Balcony is the same 22 with a small balcony added. After that the ladder climbs by floor area: 30 for the Superior, 35 for the Premium, 50 for the suites.
What the rooms look at is the other half of it. The hotel's rooms page promises every room a view of the city or the river, but when it describes each category it is more careful: the Ivens Balcony overlooks the city, the Premium rooms face the city centre, and the Capelo, spread over all five floors, is promised tranquillity and no outlook at all. The panoramic view of the city and the Tagus comes from the private terraces of the two Signature Suites on the top floor, and no other category is sold with it.
What to do. If daylight and a view matter, book the Ivens Balcony or the Premium, the categories sold on what they face. If you take a Capelo, ask the hotel which way it looks before you arrive.
Rocco serves until one in the morning, with a DJ, under the bedrooms
Rocco, the restaurant on the ground floor, keeps its own hours rather than the hotel's. Its own site gives every one of its spaces a close of one in the morning, seven days a week: the Ristorante's evening sitting from 19:30, the Crudo Bar and the Terrazza from 12:30, and the Gastrobar from 10:30, where a DJ plays vinyl to the room. It has its own street door at Rua Ivens 14, and the hotel's own FAQ says its restaurants are open to the public, so the evening crowd is the city's rather than the hotel's.
The hotel's own food page calls the Ristorante noisy, and means it as praise. Guests on the lower floors report that the noise carries, and that weekends are the worst of it. The Ivens Balcony, our pick, adds a door onto the outside, which is worth having on a high floor and a liability on a low one.
What to do. Ask for the highest floor available when you book and again at check-in. Light sleepers should not accept a low-floor balcony room on a Friday or a Saturday.
The ground floor is a separate business, with its own door, bookings and rules
Rocco is not the hotel's dining room in the usual sense. It is run by Plateform, a Lisbon restaurant group, with its own reservations, its own events team and its own terms: tables are held on a card, and a no-show or a cancellation inside three hours costs 25 euros a head at lunch or dinner and 15 at breakfast. Its own guidance sends diners to the public car park on Largo Boa Hora, because the hotel's garage is for residents only.
That split is the likely reason behind a complaint that turns up in guest reports: that bar and restaurant staff favour outside diners. Guests also report that the hotel side feels chain-standard rather than personal when the building is full.
What to do. Book Rocco the way a non-resident would, through the restaurant, and say you are staying upstairs. Take any service problem to the front desk, which is the hotel, rather than to the restaurant floor.
Breakfast is 42 euros a head, and the city tax comes on top
The hotel's booking pages list breakfast as available at Rocco for a fee, and Rocco's own breakfast menu prices it at 42 euros a person: a buffet of bread and pastry, a hot drink and a juice, and eggs, pancakes or porridge cooked to order, from 6:30 to 10:30. For two people over three nights that is 252 euros, before the 19 euro caviar supplement the same menu offers.
Lisbon adds its own charge. The city's tourist tax is 4 euros per guest per night for everyone aged 13 and over, up to seven nights, collected by the hotel and itemised on the bill. Parking in the building is a paid extra on the room categories; only the suite pages offer the valet free, with conditions.
What to do. If your dates offer a rate with breakfast, compare the difference with 84 euros a morning for two. Otherwise walk seven minutes to the pastel de nata counter on Praça Luís de Camões, which opens at eight.
There is no pool and no spa, only a gym that never closes
The hotel's own list of what it has runs to a restaurant, a bar, a private car park, a meeting room and a gym open 24 hours. There is no pool and no spa, although the prose on the same page has its explorers passing each other in the spa, and the only on-site facility the booking pages list is the fitness centre. Rocco's Terrazza, an inner garden laid out like an Italian courtyard, is a dining room open to the public rather than a residents' garden.
With rooms starting at 22 square metres and no residents' lounge on that list, there is nowhere to be at three in the afternoon except your room or a table you pay for, downstairs or down the street. Guests report missing a pool, a garden or a lounge at this price.
What to do. Treat The Ivens as a base for sleeping, eating and going out. If your Lisbon includes a pool or a spa afternoon, this is the wrong hotel for it.
Who should skip it
Light sleepers who cannot be sure of a high floor, anyone whose Lisbon includes a pool or a spa afternoon, and anyone travelling as three, who must climb to the Premium or a suite before the hotel allows a rollaway. Also anyone who wants a quiet hotel in the evening: the ground floor is built for the night.
Who should book it anyway
Anyone who wants to sleep in the middle of Chiado and make the hotel part of the night rather than an escape from it. Book the Ivens Balcony or a Premium on a high floor, eat at Rocco at least once, and the size, the noise and the breakfast bill become costs you chose rather than ones that found you.
The catch elsewhere in Lisbon
- Bairro Alto HotelChiado
Rooms facing the square hear Bairro Alto nightlife and the tram until late.
- Palácio Príncipe RealPríncipe Real
Rates now sit firmly in the upper band for a small hotel whose spa is two treatment rooms.
- Hotel das AmoreirasAmoreiras
Not central: Chiado is downhill and the return is a climb, a taxi or the 758 bus.
- Four Seasons Hotel Ritz LisbonAvenida da Liberdade
The location is grand rather than atmospheric; old Lisbon is a walk or a taxi away.
- Memmo Príncipe RealPríncipe Real
Not every room has the view; the entry category is sold without one.
- Sublime LisboaAmoreiras
Not central; expect taxis or a long walk to the old town.
- Santiago de AlfamaAlfama
No parking in the old quarter; without the hotel's paid transfer, luggage goes up cobbled lanes.
- Palácio LudoviceSão Pedro de Alcântara
Bairro Alto nightlife brings noise to street-facing rooms, especially at weekends.
- Verride Palácio Santa CatarinaSanta Catarina
The miradouro crowd below is loud on summer evenings; ask about room position.
Questions people ask
Good questions about The Ivens
What are the downsides of The Ivens?
Five things stand between the photograph and the stay. None of them is hidden, and two of them are the price of the fun, but each has cost someone the night they thought they had booked. The entry rooms are 22 square metres, and only two suites are sold on the river view Rocco serves until one in the morning, with a DJ, under the bedrooms The ground floor is a separate business, with its own door, bookings and rules Breakfast is 42 euros a head, and the city tax comes on top There is no pool and no spa, only a gym that never closes
Who should not book The Ivens?
Light sleepers who cannot be sure of a high floor, anyone whose Lisbon includes a pool or a spa afternoon, and anyone travelling as three, who must climb to the Premium or a suite before the hotel allows a rollaway. Also anyone who wants a quiet hotel in the evening: the ground floor is built for the night.
Our verdict
The most fun hotel in central Lisbon. Book a higher floor, eat at Rocco and enjoy the theatre of it.
Last checked: September 2026