Why the slowest express in the world is worth a whole day
In the early twentieth century Zermatt and St. Moritz became cosmopolitan resorts, and in 1930 the railways that served them agreed to run a train between the two. The first Glacier Express left Zermatt on 25 June 1930, with saloon cars and a dining car. For half a century it ran only in summer, because snow and avalanches closed the line over the Furka each autumn. The Furka Base Tunnel, opened on 26 June 1982, made it a train for every season.
The line is metre gauge from end to end, and it climbs where a main line would tunnel. Its average speed is 42 km/h and its steepest gradient 12.5%, which is how a journey of 291 km comes to take most of a day, and why the operator still quotes the old nickname, the slowest express train in the world. In the 1980s it took to serving wine in a glass with a slanted stem, so the drink stays level on the climbs.
The finest engineering comes last. The Albula line, opened in 1903, through to St. Moritz in 1904 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008, lifts the train 1,078 m between Thusis and St. Moritz over 61.67 km of track, by way of 144 bridges and 42 tunnels and without a metre of rack. Its builders gained the height by turning the line back on itself in spiral and helical tunnels above Bergün, and by throwing the Landwasser Viaduct across a gorge into a cliff. Since 1993 the trains have had windows glazed up into the roof, so you see the mountains to their summits.









