Bodegón del Pueblo Canario
2 min walkCanarian tavern on the village square · €€
Next door, on the square of the Pueblo Canario, the neo-Canarian village that Néstor Martín-Fernández de la Torre sketched in 1937 and his brother Miguel built. The Bodegón is its tavern, with a terrace on the square and Canarian and mainland Spanish cooking. Come late on a Sunday morning, when folk groups play and dance on that terrace in the island costume Néstor designed. Hours are not published, so look in on the way past or ask at the hotel.
Walk inPueblo Canario, Calle Francisco González Díaz
Bistro-bar terrace on the marina · €€
A bistro-bar at the Muelle Deportivo, the city's marina, opened in 2012 by a Las Palmas group, with a terrace made for long lunches. The menu leans to the sea and the island: papitas arrugás with mojo at €5.95, grilled cheese from El Hierro with red-pepper jam at €9.80, croquetas of puchero or almogrote, a ceviche of the day's fish at €15.50 and black rice with squid and prawns at €13.50. Open every day for lunch and dinner, until midnight on Friday and Saturday; book the terrace at weekends.
Reserve aheadCC Sotavento, locales 9 y 12
Island bakery for almendrados and coffee · €
A family bakery and pastry shop with branches around the city and more than 20 years behind it, on León y Castillo heading towards the centre. It bakes white and multigrain loaves, queques, the Canarian loaf cake, and almendrados, the island's almond biscuits, along with puff pastries filled with pistachio cream, and serves coffee to go with them. Open Monday to Friday from 7:30 to 21:00, Saturday from 8:30 to 20:30, and Sunday and holidays from 8:30 to 14:30.
Walk inCalle León y Castillo 176
Fish over charcoal on the marina, one Repsol Sol · €€€
On the water at the north end of the Muelle Deportivo, 17 minutes on foot or three by taxi, and the marina's serious table: one Repsol Sol, and a house that the cook Rafael Bueno and John Vriethoff, who looks after the dining room, have run since 2006. Fish is cooked over charcoal, on the grill and in a Josper oven, fula, turbot, pompano and sea bass among them, the menu follows the catch, and the wine list leans to Canarian Malvasía and Listán Blanco. Monday to Saturday 13:30 to 16:30 and 20:00 to 23:00, Sunday lunch only; tables must be booked a day ahead.
Book well ahead: tables go weeks outMuelle Deportivo, Calle Joaquín Blanco Torrent
Bib Gourmand Canarian cooking, updated · €€
Near Las Alcaravaneras beach, 16 minutes on foot or four by taxi, and the city's only Bib Gourmand in the MICHELIN Guide. Carmelo Florido cooks Canarian produce somewhere between tradition and modern technique: order the Canarian ceviche, carajacas, the island's way with veal liver, sautéed with caramelised onion and garlic, and huevos moles with gofio for dessert. Lunch and dinner from Thursday to Saturday, lunch only on Sunday, closed Monday to Wednesday; book by telephone.
Book well ahead: tables go weeks outCalle Ingeniero Salinas 23
Port market hall with tapas stalls · €
The port's market hall, a protected modernist building in wrought iron that Laureano Arroyo designed in 1891, a few streets back from Las Canteras and six minutes away by taxi. Produce stalls trade in the morning; from midday the food stalls take over, among them Piscos & Buches for Canarian plates, Mabo Fish for seafood and Bocado Ibérico for ham and cheese, and Sunday lunchtimes often bring live music. The food stalls open from 12:30 to 15:30 and 20:00 to 23:00 from Tuesday to Thursday, from noon to midnight on Friday and Saturday and from noon to 17:00 on Sunday; closed on Monday.
Walk inCalle Albareda 76
Breakfast is a buffet in Doramas, the hotel restaurant whose terrace also takes the Sunday jazz brunch, from 07:00 to 10:30 on weekdays and 07:30 to 11:00 at weekends. It is not included in the room rate, so check what your rate includes; on its own it costs about €27 for an adult. Guests rate it highly. Outside, La Madera bakes almendrados and pours coffee from 7:30 on weekdays and 8:30 at weekends, ten minutes on foot.
